Fashion

TAG Heuer’s Reconsidered Monaco Chronograph Comes Out In Pole Position

Words by

Ollie Cox

Photography by

Fraser Chatham

Set Styling

Kate Mason
Man About Town

As part of its new crop of timepieces unveiled at Watches and Wonders in April, the Swiss watchmaker presents a full-throttle reimagining of the its Steve McQueen-approved timepiece.

Few watches have TAG Heuer Monaco status. The first square-shaped automatic chronograph – it was named after the high-octane thrills of the Monaco Grand Prix and enjoyed time on Steve McQueen’s wrist in the 1971 racing movie Le Mans. And this year, its icon status is honoured with a performance upgrade.

However, the TAG Heuer Monaco goes beyond movie star allure. It’s a formidable feat of watchmaking that stems back to the 1960s. Back then, people wanted more from their timepiece. Self-winding automatics removed any need for winding by hand. But chronographs, by definition, were required to house a stopwatch function, not to mention extra wheels and columns inside the watch. As such, they called for a little more thought when keeping in step with the evolution of the era.

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TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Green sunray brushed dial, 39mm fine brushed grade 5 titanium case, fine brushed grade 5 titanium bezel, Calibre TH20-11 movement and black calfskin strap.

Heuer set out to fix any spatial issues by working to create the world’s first automatic chronograph movement alongside partners including Breitling, Hamilton, and Dépraz & Co. This led to the development of the Calibre 11 in 1969, which used a micro-rotor (the function that automatically winds your watch) small enough to fit in the case. Naturally, when you’re cooking up complicated offerings like this, you need an enticing timepiece to show it off. Enter the TAG Heuer Monaco – a quadrangular design gem that stood apart from the pack, most notably with its crown on the left side of the case, out of necessity.

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TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Black opalin dial, 39mm fine brushed grade 5 titanium case, fine brushed grade 5 titanium bezel, Calibre TH20-11 movement and black calfskin strap

Like other iconic watch designs that go against the status quo (the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak comes to mind), it wasn’t initially well received, with many thinking it was too outré for the conservative tastes of the era. Although it did get some love from the likes of Sammy Davis Jr and Stanley Kubrick, and of course McQueen. The original’s production run spanned five years before its 1997 revival, featuring an altered, slightly thicker case with squarer and more regular proportions. In 2024, TAG Heuer reignited the lore around this watch with the Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph, returning to the original shape and placing a focus back on technical innovation with a Grade 5 titanium case, incorporating sandblasted finishes and lattices to achieve a Formula 1 car-like degree of lightness.

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TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Black opalin dial, 39mm fine brushed grade 5 titanium case, fine brushed grade 5 titanium bezel, Calibre TH20-11 movement and black calfskin strap.

And this year, the Swiss watchmaker is building on that hot streak with its latest interpretation of the Monaco. The titanium case clocks in at 39mm, and mirrors the true square shape of the original. But rather than simply comprising a nostalgia trip, the design moves the story forward once more. The case curves at the edges to keep things comfortable, and it comes in three colour options: TAG’s signature Monaco Blue (as worn by McQueen), a sunray-brushed and lacquered dark green, and a black model housed in a gold and titanium case. Each option boasts a head-turning enchantment, but it’s never too much. This is a watch that catches the right kind of attention for people who know their way around the history books. And, in a nod to the original Calibre 11, subsidiary counters sit at three and nine o’clock, with a handy date window sneaking in at six o’clock. Under the hood, these high-powered grails are packing the in-house Calibre TH20-11 movement, providing an 80-hour power reserve.

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(Right) TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Black opalin dial, 39mm fine brushed grade 5 titanium case, fine brushed grade 5 titanium bezel, Calibre TH20-11 movement and black calfskin strap. (Left) TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Green sunray brushed dial, 39mm fine brushed grade 5 titanium case, fine brushed grade 5 titanium bezel, Calibre TH20-11 movement and black calfskin strap

The Monaco is a watch for being first across the line. Its grit-meets-glamour design and engineering have won over collectors for over fifty years. Now, with a 21st-century upgrade, TAG Heuer has turbocharged this horological speedster for the future.

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